Painting miniatures is a fun and rewarding hobby that brings your tabletop games and display pieces to life! If you’re just starting, it might feel overwhelming—there are so many paints, techniques, and tools to choose from.
But don’t worry! Whether you’re working through your collection of Reaper Bones miniatures for your Frostgrave bestiary or simply looking to make your miniatures pop with minimal effort, this beginner’s guide to painting miniatures will walk you through the basics.
We’ll break it all down step-by-step so you can feel confident with your first (or next) paint job, even if you struggle with creating contrast. Let’s dive in and get those miniatures looking fabulous on the table!
Essential Tools & Materials for Miniature Painting
Ah, the first time I tried painting a miniature—let’s just say it was a disaster. I had a collection of cheap synthetic brushes, even cheaper craft paint, and delusions of grandeur.
Spoiler alert: the result looked like a color explosion on a gremlin. But we all start somewhere, right? I figured out what tools make painting easier over time (and many paint-stained fingers later). Let me save you from making the same mistakes and break down the essentials.
Brushes: What Sizes and Shapes You Need
Let’s start with brushes—trust me, they’re more important than you think. You don’t need a whole collection right off the bat; just three key brushes will get you far:
- Size 1 or 2 round brush: This will be your go-to for base coats and details on most of your miniatures. Make sure it has a good point; this is like your sword in battle.
- Larger round or flat brush (size 4-6): Use this for priming or dry brushing. You can also use these to basecoat the larger models you add to your collection. It’s perfect for covering larger areas or adding texture.
- Detail brush (size 00 or 000): This tiny brush is great for eyes, belt buckles, or those annoying pouches that seem to appear on every model.
Pro tip: If your brush starts losing its point, you’re probably pressing too hard or not cleaning it right. I’ve been there, done that, and cried a little.
Paints: Acrylic vs. Contrast Paints
Now, let’s talk paints. Most beginners start with acrylic paints—they’re affordable, easy to find, and forgiving. Brands like Citadel, Vallejo, and Army Painter are reliable choices. Thin them with water or medium, and layer them up. Easy, right?
Then there are contrast paints (or speed paints). These paints work like magic—they flow into recesses and create shading and highlights in one step. They helped me finish tabletop-ready models way faster than traditional layering when I started.
If you’re just beginning, grab a basic acrylic set and maybe one or two contrast paints to experiment with.
Bonus: Layering contrast paint over a light basecoat can create some incredible effects.
Primers: Yes, You Do Need It
Skipping primer is like painting on Teflon—it just doesn’t stick. Your paint won’t last, and your beautifully painted miniature will start rubbing off paint after just one game night.
If you want to get fancy, there are spray primers, brush-on primers, and even airbrush primers. As a beginner, go with a spray primer—Citadel’s Chaos Black or Army Painter Colour Primer: Matt Black are solid picks. Don’t spray indoors unless you want to give your cat a makeover.
And be gentle with it! I once over-primed a mini so much that it lost all its face details. That poor dwarf looked like a melted candle.
Palettes: Wet vs. Dry
Here’s a game-changing tip: you don’t need to use paint straight from the pot. Revolutionary, right?
A dry palette is any flat surface—tile, plastic lid, paper plate—perfect for beginners. It works just fine when you’re starting.
But once you try a wet palette, you may never look back. It’s a damp sponge with parchment paper on top, keeping your paints from drying out mid-session. I made my first one using Tupperware and paper towels with a piece of parchment paper on top—it was a total game changer.
Other Supplies: The Stuff You’ll Kick Yourself for Forgetting
Here are a few things I always keep within arm’s reach:
- Paper towels: For drying brushes, fixing mistakes, or cleaning up spills.
- Two water cups: One for regular paints and one for metallics (they shed glitter-like flakes).
- Brush soap or conditioner: The Master’s Brush Cleaner is like a spa day for your brushes.
- Good desk lamp: Don’t paint in dim light—otherwise, you might end up giving a barbarian bright green eyeshadow by accident.
None of this has to break the bank or be overwhelming. Start with the basics, upgrade as you go, and remember: every top-tier painter was once nervously dabbing paint onto a plastic skeleton at their kitchen table. You’ve got this.
Pro Tip: Need help picking a budget-friendly starter kit or figuring out which brands to avoid? Check out our recommended starter paint kits here!
Prepping Your Miniatures for Painting
When I first started, I skipped prep work entirely. I’d rip open the box, pick the coolest-looking miniature, and start painting like I was decorating a cake.
But here’s the truth: no matter your skill, the final result will always fall short if the mini isn’t cleaned and prepped properly. It’s like trying to paint on a dirty window—it looks fine at first, but it won’t hold up.
Let’s break down the prep steps so your minis will shine. Trust me, it’s not as dull as it sounds—and it’ll make a massive difference in your painting results.
Cleaning and Removing Mold Lines – A Must-Do, Not Just for Perfectionists
Mold lines. Ugh. Those thin seams left from the mold halves come together during manufacturing. And they show up everywhere—across faces, through cloaks, or down the edges of swords. They’re like that one bad hair day that ruins everything.
At first, I ignored them, thinking the paint would cover them.
Spoiler: it doesn’t. It just makes them stand out more. So grab a hobby knife, mold line remover, or a fine file to scrape them away gently. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just smooth enough to let the paint go on cleanly.
Pro tip: hold your mini under a bright light or feel it with your fingers to find any sneaky lines you missed.
Also, remember to wash your miniatures before painting, especially resin or plastic ones. They often have mold release agents that can make the paint slip off like water off a duck’s back. All you need is a quick soak in warm, soapy water, a gentle scrub with a soft toothbrush, and letting them dry.
Assembling Miniatures – AKA “Gluing Your Fingers to Everything but the Model”
Ah, assembly. If you’re working with multi-part minis, this can be an adventure. You’ll need two kinds of glue:
- Plastic cement: Perfect for hard plastic minis. It melts the pieces slightly to bond them, making it super strong. But be careful—there’s no room for error.
- Super glue (cyanoacrylate): This works for resin, metal, or mixed-material models. Just don’t overdo it, or it’ll turn white and crunchy. Trust me, I’ve learned this the hard way.
You’ll also need tweezers, a hobby knife, and maybe clamps or rubber bands for tricky bits. And dry-fit everything before gluing.
Please.
There’s nothing worse than realizing an arm doesn’t fit after the glue has set.
Don’t hesitate to leave parts separate for easier painting. I usually paint the larger assemblies first, then attach the other subassemblies afterward.
Priming Your Mini – Spray vs. Brush-On vs. Airbrush
Priming is non-negotiable. It gives your paint something to grip and helps bring out the details. There are a few ways to do it, each with its own style:
- Spray primer: Fast and even, great for batch painting. Ensure you’re in a well-ventilated area and keep the can 6–12 inches from the model. Build it up in light passes—trust me, you don’t want to drown your mini in paint (I once turned a goblin into a blob with one overenthusiastic blast).
- Brush-on primer: This is ideal for touch-ups or if you can’t use spray cans. It’s thicker, so be careful not to fill in fine details. Vallejo and Army Painter offer solid options.
- Airbrush primer: This is the pro choice if you’ve got an airbrush setup. You get perfect control and super-thin coats. I didn’t get into this until a few years ago, but now it’s my go-to for most projects.
I use color primers now, based on what I’m working on. If you’re just starting, use a black primer for dark or gritty themes, grey for a neutral base, and white or bone if you aim for bright, vibrant colors. There’s also zenithal priming (spraying lighter colors from above to mimic natural light), but that’s a whole topic for another time.
The prep work is where it all starts.
Do it right, and the painting process will feel smoother. Skip it, and you’ll fight texture issues, gaps, and paint adhesion the whole way.
Take your time now, and you’ll thank yourself later when you start layering your colors and everything falls into place.
Next, we’ll cover base coats and how to avoid turning your entire palette into muddy brown. (Yep, been there. I’ve got the ruined elf to prove it.)
Basic Painting Techniques for Beginners
Let’s break down some basic painting techniques that took me from “What’s a wash?” to “Whoa, that actually looks like armor!” These are the essentials. Don’t worry, you don’t need to be a color genius to get your miniatures looking great. A few key techniques, some practice, and a decent light source will do the trick.
Base Coating: Getting an Even, Smooth First Layer
When I first tried base coating, it looked like I dipped my miniature in peanut butter—thick, gloopy, and sad. The trick? Thin your paints! Thin like milk—smooth but not watery.
Start with a wet palette if you have one. If not, a Tupperware and parchment paper will do just fine. Add water to your paint, then apply it in multiple thin coats. Let each one dry entirely for that smooth, even finish.
Pro tip: Use a larger brush than you think for base coating. A size 2 round works best. It covers more area without streaking, saving you time and frustration.
Washing: How to Use Washes for Effortless Shading
Washes are like magic in a bottle—adding depth with minimal effort. I swear by Army Painter Warpaints Fanatic Wash: Dark Tone and Strong Tone, but plenty of great options exist.
The key: don’t overdo it. Dab your brush into the recesses, let gravity work, and if it pools, gently touch a clean brush to it and watch it disappear. Washes add instant depth to armor, skin, cloth—anything. The first time I used one, I gasped. Out loud. Alone. No regrets.
Layering and Blending: Simple Methods to Add Depth
Layering used to scare me. I thought it required expertise in color theory. Nope! Not really. As a beginner, you can follow the box art as best you can, or any reference art that inspires you.
Paint your base color, then add white or off-white to it to create a lighter shade. Then, apply to raised areas.
If you’re feeling fancy, try blending. Feather the edges where the two colors meet with a damp brush. It may look messy at first, but don’t panic. Give it time to dry and watch it smooth out.
My first successful blend was on a robot warrior’s cloak. I was so proud I almost didn’t want to varnish it. (But I did. Always protect your work.)
Dry Brushing: A Quick Way to Highlight Details
Dry brushing is a game-changer. Grab an old brush (one you don’t mind ruining), or a flat brush. Dip it in paint, then wipe most of it off on a paper towel. You want the brush to feel nearly dry.
Now, flick the brush across raised areas with a lot of texture. Instant highlights on chainmail, fur, rocks—you name it. It’s almost like cheating, but in the best way.
I once dry-brushed a dull skeleton into a gritty nightmare. It took five minutes. I still show it off like it’s art.
Edge Highlighting: Making Your Minis Pop with Sharp Highlights
Edge highlighting adds life to your models, especially armor or fabric. It’s a thin line of paint along the edges to simulate light hitting the high points. Sounds easy, right? It’s not.
Here’s the trick: When possible, use the edge of your brush and gently drag it across the edges. It’ll add that pop that makes your mini stand out, especially on black armor or metal.
Once I figured it out, I started edge-highlighting everything—my dice box, my glasses—and I have no regrets.
These five techniques—base coating, layering, washing, dry brushing, and edge highlighting—are the core of my workflow now. Sure, there are fancier techniques out there that I use to speed up paint batches, but these are the ones that transformed my single-character minis from “blobby mess” to “ready to show off.”
And hey, even when things don’t go perfectly? That’s part of the fun. We’re hobbyists, not robots (well, except for me… metaphorically).
Want to learn how to fix mistakes without repainting the whole mini? Let’s dive into that next.
Spoiler: Sometimes it involves a toothpick and a steady hand.
Common Beginner Mistakes & How to Avoid Them
Ah, the rookie mistakes we all make. If I had a coin for every mistake I made when I started painting miniatures, I could’ve bought a complete Citadel paint set and maybe even a few premium brushes. I learned these lessons hard, with my desk covered in goopy skeletons and streaky barbarians as proof.
Using Too Much Paint: Thin Layers are the Secret
When I first started, I thought the more paint, the better. More paint meant faster coverage, right?
Wrong.
It’s like trying to frost a cake with a shovel. I once completely drowned a mummy in ivory—his details were gone, and he looked like he melted. That’s when I learned the real magic: thin your paints.
A wet palette or a simple ceramic tile with water or acrylic thinner helps keep the paint smooth and workable. Thin layers might take 2-3 coats, but you’ll keep those crisp details, and your miniature will look like it’s supposed to.
Not Letting Paint Dry Between Steps—Patience is Key
Oh boy, I was so impatient when I started. I’d slap on a base coat, rush to shade, and wonder why everything looked muddy.
The trick is simple: let each layer dry.
Step away for a bit—grab a coffee, scroll through hobby Instagram, or yell at your printer for no reason. Acrylics dry fast, but they need time.
Once I let each layer dry, my miniatures looked cleaner, with no accidental mixing or messy textures. It turns out that patience isn’t just a virtue—it’s a game-changer for miniature painting.
Choosing the Wrong Brush for the Job—Use the Right Tool
Here’s another rookie mistake I made: I used the same brush for everything, from priming to edge highlighting. The results? Not pretty.
Eventually, I invested in the right brushes for specific tasks:
- A size 1 or 2 round for base coating.
- A fine detail brush (size 0 or 00) for tiny details like eyes and buckles.
- A big flat brush for dry brushing or base coating larger miniatures and terrain.
Pro tip: Use cheap synthetic brushes for rough jobs like priming or metallic drybrushing. Save your quality brushes for the finesse work. You wouldn’t use a scalpel to butter toast, right?
Skipping Primer—It’s Essential for Adhesion
Let me tell you about the time I painted a lich without priming. They looked great—until I touched them.
The paint flaked off like old wallpaper. It was heartbreaking.
Primer is like double-sided tape for paint. It gives the surface some grip so your paint sticks properly. Without primer, your paint won’t adhere well, no matter how good your technique.
- I usually use the airbrush for convenience, especially if the weather’s uncooperative.
- Spray primers are great if you have a lot of miniatures or a larger model to prime at one time.
- Brush-on primers are great if you’re like me and live in an area where it’s cold and snowy for a quarter of the year.
The point is, just don’t skip it. Trust me, future you will thank you.
I made these few mistakes, but fixing them is easy once you know what to look for. Remember these tips, and you’ll be miles ahead of where I started!
Finishing Touches & Protecting Your Miniatures
Ah, the finishing touches.
This is when your mini goes from “I did my best” to “I’m about to show this off to everyone.”
After hours—or even days—of painting, you’ve wrestled with tiny details, maybe yelled at your brushes, and now you’re looking at your almost-finished masterpiece, hoping nothing ruins it at the last second.
Let’s dive into sealing, basing, and fixing those tiny errors to make your mini look chef’s kiss.
Sealing Your Paint Job: Matte, Gloss, or Satin?
Let’s be honest: I used to skip sealing my minis.
I was afraid it would ruin all my hard work, especially after hearing about the dreaded cloudy finishes. But after a few minis started showing wear, I quickly learned that sealing is essential.
Now, I swear by matte varnish. It tones down any shine (especially if you’re using glossy paints like Citadel or Vallejo), making the details pop and giving your mini a more finished look.
But—lesson learned—you’ve got to shake that can like it owes you money. Don’t mix it properly or spray in humid conditions, and you’ll end up with a foggy finish.
Gloss varnish is excellent for details like gems, glass, or slime. I use a brush-on gloss varnish for those parts, then finish it with a matte spray over the whole mini for protection.
If you want something in between, satin varnish is your Goldilocks choice—not too shiny or dull. I use it for capes, leather, or any area that needs a subtle sheen without looking too glossy.
What I usually do now is start with matte varnish and then paint in gloss and satin in certain areas to add that extra character to a finished miniature.
Basing Your Miniature: Adding Texture and Scenery
When I started, my bases were just black plastic—yep, real basic. But when I placed a beautifully painted dwarf on one, it felt like putting a tuxedo on a scarecrow. So, I decided to step up my basing game.
Now, I go for simple, but effective. Sand, glue, maybe a tuft of grass or a scrap of sprue for rubble—nothing too fancy. If I’m feeling adventurous, I’ve even used coffee grounds for dirt (yes, seriously). The key here is to seal it all down, especially if you’re using natural materials like sand or grass.
One trick I learned early on is to keep the base rim neat and uniform—black, brown, or something that matches the theme of your mini. This frames the model perfectly and instantly upgrades the overall look.
Fixing Mistakes: How to Correct Paint Errors Without Starting Over
Let’s face it: you’re going to make mistakes. It’s just part of the process. I once spilled Agrax Earthshade all over a white cloak I had spent hours perfecting and almost cried.
But here’s the secret: patience and thin layers. If you overpaint something, don’t use more paint to fix it.
If the paint is still wet, use a clean, damp brush to gently scrub away the excess paint.
Alternatively, thin down your base color and build it up slowly. It’s like undoing mistakes in Photoshop, but with smaller brushes and much less sweating.
For edge mistakes, I grab a fine-tipped brush (like a Winsor & Newton Series 7, if you want to go fancy) and carefully re-outline the areas with my basecoat color. It’s fiddly, but it works.
And hey, if it all goes south, strip it and start over. There’s no shame in that. Every mini teaches you something.
So, finishing your mini isn’t just about calling it done. It’s about sealing it for protection, basing it to give it some grounding, and fixing those little mistakes only you notice. When you’re done, your mini stops being a project and becomes something you can be proud of.
Next time someone picks up one of your minis and says, “How’d you do that?” Just smile and say: “Lots of mistakes. And varnish.”
Next Steps—Improving Your Miniature Painting Skills
Alright, you’ve got some base coats down, added a wash or two, and maybe even dry-brushed your way through a mini or two.
Now you’re looking at your latest work and thinking, “This is good, but how do I make it pop?”
Trust me, I’ve been there. It’s like getting tired of your usual PB&J and thinking, “Maybe I should try some actual cooking.”
- Push Yourself to Try New Techniques (Even If You’re Nervous): Let me take you back to the first time I tried wet blending. I thought I was hot stuff, mixing two colors on a mini, damp brush in hand, just vibing. Ten minutes later? I had a mess that looked like a mud fight in a fantasy setting.
But here’s the thing: that disaster taught me more than a hundred smooth, dry-brushed cloaks.
Trying techniques like non-metallic metal (NMM) or object source lighting (OSL) might initially feel overwhelming. But that’s how you grow. Start with a cheap or broken mini or even the base of a figure. That way, you can focus on learning control, contrast, and most importantly, patience. - Tutorials: Embrace the learning process. I owe a lot of my skills to YouTube and forum threads that look like they were written in 2007 (with lots of late-night caffeine).
Some awesome creators to check out are Squidmar Miniatures, Dana Howl, Ninjon, and Goobertown Hobbies—they break things down in a way that makes you feel like you can paint.
Try Miniac’s channel for more in-depth explanations of some advanced techniques or the older (but still gold!) content from Painting Buddha for more structured learning.
Patreon is another treasure trove of guides, tutorials, and STL mini designs. It gives you the feeling of having your painting coach—one who won’t yell at you for missing a brush stroke but will gently remind you to add more contrast.
Tip: Watch the entire video before diving in. I’ve stopped halfway through, panicked about missing a brush or color, and ended up with a weird dry-brushing sponge fiasco. Not recommended. - Find Your Community: Miniature painting can get lonely when you’re sitting there with your brushes, your paint, and your cat’s silent judgment.
However, finding others to connect with will make a difference.
Whether it’s a Discord server, a Reddit thread like r/minipainting, or a Facebook group, it’s impressive to see what other painters are working on. You’ll learn new techniques you didn’t even know existed—like the loaded brush technique (yes, you can load a brush like a baked potato?).
Also, don’t overlook your local game store (LGS). A few in my area hold “Paint & Play” nights, and they’ve been game-changers.
You get to chat with others and pick up little tricks, like when someone showed me how to fix the frosting effect from varnish with just a mist of isopropyl alcohol. I would’ve never figured that out on my own.
Improving your skills is less about achieving the perfect mini and more about staying curious, experimenting with new ideas, and sharing the journey with others who get it. Plus, there’s always a new technique to learn or a paint you “definitely need” for your ever-expanding collection. (Yes, I’m talking about that neon green you bought for a “one-off goblin.”)
Next time, maybe give that intimidating technique a shot—or better yet, ask someone who’s been there. Odds are, they’ve made the same mistakes and come out stronger.
Conclusion
Starting your miniature painting journey is more straightforward than it seems—just pick up your first miniature, follow the tips in this guide, and enjoy the process!
With each new piece, your skills will grow.
Remember, practice makes perfect!
And don’t forget to share your work with fellow hobbyists and keep experimenting with new techniques. You’ve got this!
